Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Liberator Gold

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Edge highlighting – The metal and gold parts get an edge highlight of Ironbreaker, and I use the same color for the rivets. For the armor, I do an edge highlight with The Fang and the another smaller edge highlight with Snow Shadow on the corners and top edges. I edge the leather parts with Mournfang Brown. I do a standard gemstone pattern on the gemstone on his shoulder pad.

The copper quad is "decayed metal", "victorian brass", "old copper" and "pure copper". I find these less useful, as I usually want a brass rather than a copper effect (think polished brass instruments, or ornaments); these are definitely biased more towards a red-hued copper of different ages. If you want a copper range though, they are great. We want a nice, colder gold over a warm redish gold. So don’t worry about putting down a layer of retributor armour. Instead…. Gold Trim – I do my gold Trim with Retributor Armour. I used to do it with Balthasar Gold, then a few layers of Auric Armour but that took forever and came out too yellow. This new method is faster and looks better. Basically I do Retributor then hit it with a couple coats of Agrax Earthshade. Mix in some Stormhost Sliver in your Liberator Gold. Do a thicc highlight. Seriously almost layer it on. Mix a ton of Lahmian Medium into Kabalite green. Do a few layers of this Starting at the mid point of one half of the sword. The at the same point, hit the otherside of the sword blade and go towards the tip. Continue to do layers of this, progressively moving away from the center of the sword.After this starts looking ‘good’ add in some ‘cool’ by mixing Lahminan Medium with Ulthuan Grey, repeating the above process but further down the blade. Red: Mephiston Red is a deep, rich red that can be used as an analogous color to Liberator Gold. This color combo creates a sense of warmth and energy, making it perfect for highlighting the details of the metallic elements of your miniatures. Adding more layers – I highlight the cabling with Moot Green to give it a brighter look that pops against the dark armor. I edge highlight the Bolter with Evil Sunz Scarlet and use Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet to build up the cloth tabard. The eye lenses are Mephiston Red with a spot of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I also wash the leather parts with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil. Jokes aside, Night Lords are my fave traitor legion. Their lore is great and the concept of various warbands of these major screw ups roving around the galaxy is great for creating your very own group of deluded murderers. There is also an element of Kurze totally and utterly failing his sons on every level, dooming them to their current tragedy of an existence that I personally enjoy.

Washes – time to do some fast shading. I use Carroburg Crimson on the red parts, Nuln Oil on the metal parts, Coelia Greenshade on the cabling, and Agrax Earthshade on the gold trim and bone parts. I also use Carroburg Crimson and Nuln oil to shade the upper right corners of the gemstone. The 8 paint metal n alchemy sets have 4 metallics each, and 4 'alchemy' paints, which are coloured metallics for adjusting the hue for different effects. e.g. the steel set has an additional white, and pale blue, green and purple that you can mix into the other metallics or highlight with. Blue (cobalt alchemy) is great for tinting dwarf armour for example as an alternative to doing it via a end stage blue glaze. They're less shiny than the pure metallics. This is the first Warhammer 40,000 vehicle I’ve painted in the 21st Century! It began with a base of Leadbelcher Spray , followed by two layers of Dark Angels Green on the armour plates, I then edge-highlighted it with Waaagh! Flesh . I used Basilicanum Grey and Ratling Grime on the metals, with Iron Hands Steel as a highlight. For the classic red weaponry, I used Flesh Tearers Red and Baal Red Contrast, highlighted with Wild Rider Red . Retributor Gold shaded with Agrax Earthshade worked for the gold elements, and I had Baneblade Brown with Seraphim Sepia applied to the scrollwork and purity seals. I’m pretty happy with how this guy turned out, and I think the process is repeatable enough to do another three dozen times, not that I’m looking to do that. Working with Night Lords Blue is a lot easier than my prior methods, and it’s a great paint to use for the base coats.

Blog Archive

Thanks for reading, and keep your eyes peeled for part 2 in the next couple of weeks. In the mean time there’s the full Ballista crew video linked at the top of this post to keep you going. When the battle lines form and the rows of Stormcast Eternals charge, the Celestar Ballista adds a dose of firepower to cut down the enemies of Sigmar. With the size of the barrels you could easily mistake it for a quad-barrelled heavy bolter with some fancy mounting, but the ballista is worth it’s weight in plastic. A start to finish tutorial for the ballista can be found on our Youtube Channel, while the other crewman will be up as a video tutorial on 2nd March 2020. The three lightest silvers (Aluminium, Chrome and Sliver) are all the same as far as I can tell. I bought and used all three, and I just cannot see any difference.

Adeptus Mechanicus: The Adeptus Mechanicus is a faction of the Imperium that is heavily focused on technology and machinery. Their soldiers are heavily augmented with cybernetic enhancements, and their vehicles and weapons are often highly advanced and ornate. Liberator Gold is an excellent choice for painting the intricate details and gears of the Adeptus Mechanicus’ machinery, as it helps to bring out the metallic and technological look of their equipment.

Painting Night Lords

In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. By popular demand, this week we’re looking at how to paint the terrifying VIII legion, the Night Lords. The Night Lords I was wondering how close in color the new ones are the the "old" ones I have. Also what is the main difference in the type of paint it is. Thanks. These are the armies that I would recommend painting with Liberator Gold, as they all have a lot of metallic and machinery elements that would benefit from the shine and metallic look of this paint. Liberator Gold Colour Schemes & Combinations

Ok, now it’s time to paint the shoulder pad. I really dislike using transfers, and I hated how goofy the old Night Lords transfers looked and I hate trying to make transfers fit on rounded shoulder pads. So what I’ve been doing for the last few years is freehanding shoulder icons. And today, I’m going to show you how that process works for my night lords. Freehand in some Lightning Bolts – I do this using Reaper Ghost White. If I’m doing larger bolts, I’ll do a thinner bolt of Reaper Pure White inside that, but for smaller models I just do the one off-white layer. I use a 10/0 brush for this. Put paint on your brush and start at the top, then drift downard using a light touch. Wherever your brush first touches the model is gonna get a drop of paint, so if you add branches I find it’s easier to start higher up and go over the bolt center again. I do all this before I do the trim work, and I’ll paint over the bolts a little as well. Generally, I do bolts on the shoulder pads, the sides of the thighs (if that space is open), and the sides of the greaves. On models with cleaner chest plates, I might add a bolt there as well, or on the tops of lightning claws. The blue shoulder pauldrons are one of the most distinctive parts of the Hammers of Sigmar and they stand out a lot amongst the gold around the top half of the miniature. To paint them I gave a smooth layer of Citadel Kantor Blue, washed it with Citadel Drakenhof Nightshade shade, then reapplied the Kantor Blue, leaving the shade around the edges of the blue, and in the dip next to the ridge nearest the miniature’s head. Next I added some Vallejo White to the Kantor Blue and and highlighted the lower portion (the side furthest from the head) and the top of the ridge (nearest the head). I then added more White to the previous mix and did one final highlight along the bottom edge of the lower portion, and across the top of the ridge. The shoulder symbol was painted using pure White. Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard, also known as the Astra Militarum, is the primary infantry force of the Imperium. They are known for their large numbers and heavy machinery, including tanks and artillery. Liberator Gold is a great choice for highlighting the armor and weapons of the Imperial Guard, as it gives them a gleaming, metallic look that perfectly fits the image of a well-equipped and well-trained military force.Anyway, here’s how I paint them with the award winning (awards pending) Completely Ok Dark blue Armour method.: The Warhammer 40K universe is full of diverse factions and armies, each with their own unique aesthetic and color scheme. When it comes to painting with Liberator Gold, there are a few armies that particularly stand out as a great fit. I am an indifferent painter at best, so the obvious choice was a Chapter featuring a lot of white, the hardest colour for Space Marine armour. The Mentor Legion have not historically mustered in strength, being too busy swanning around the galaxy teaching other Imperial forces how to shoot straight and so forth, but the Leviathan threat is clearly so enormous that they’re now deploying as an army.