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When I put Guilliman Flesh over Desert Tan I was surprised how close it actually was to putting it over Wraithbone. The flesh WAS somewhat darker, but not drastically, at least not to me. Used as a desaturated shadow shade for Type I-IV skin in shadowed areas – under the chin, sides of the cheeks, under the nose, under the hair bangs So, I’ve talked about a lot of theory and paint mixing. I don’t typically mix up my own flesh tones in painting. Hell, I’m not as good a painter, nor do I spend as much time on individual models as my co-authors. If you’re looking for display models or to win painting awards, go listen to them. If you’re looking for a flexible technique that will do some pretty nice skin for high tabletop level models, then I may have something useful to impart.
All in all, the results are very nice for the high tabletop standard I usually go for. It also saved me a lot of time by combining base colour and shading in one go, especially on the orange clothes – even over white primer, it takes several layers of achieving an even coat of orange. With Contrast, it’s just a single coat straight from the pot (or two, in my case, to make the colour even richer). Citadel Contrast review: value Regarding zenithal: I keep reading that it supposedly works very well with Contrast colors. I assume you have to dillute them a bit for that purpose. So it is something I would try with bigger miniatures and bigger surfaces, where Contrasts themselves would seem to be less efficient. Regiments I will probably undercoat with a single color, depending on the miniatures. Make up a 4:1 Carroburg Crimson:Khorne Red mix and then thin the hell out of it. You want it almost transparent. Then get some on your brush, wipe most of it off, and carefully glaze anywhere that’ll be flushed (eyes, nose and mouth are the key ones). You can just use Khorne thinned way way way down, but I think carroburg gives a nice tone to it. Then re-highlight with your last flesh mix just on the most raised parts.I think the only time you would really be able to totally obviously tell if a different primer was used under a Contrast color would be if you painted like a large vehicle or dragon model where large surfaces of the model were all the same color. Necrons – The Necrons are an ancient, soulless race of metallic constructs who seek to reclaim their former glory. Their weapons and vehicles have a sleek, otherworldly appearance, and the warm, fleshy tones of Guilliman Flesh provide an interesting contrast to the cold, metallic appearance of their army.
Glaze cheeks of type I and II skin to provide the blush – this always develops due to sun damage to the exposed cheeks. A faint tint is sufficient, don’t deepen with more layers it unless you want your model to be wearing makeup. One way to describe it is that Wraithbone tends to make the Contrast colors look slightly "warmer", while Grey Seer makes them slightly "cooler." Corax White simply makes the Contrasts slightly lighter than Grey Seer does. Glaze 4:1 Reikland Fleshshade:Mephiston Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Wraithbone or Grey Seer primer helps but isn’t necessary, so feel free to experiment with other base colours and light primers. Contrast paints really benefit from a smooth primer (as do washes, as you can see). I also applied Guilliman Flesh over Wraithbone base paint. As a lot of layers were needed for perfect coverage, the finish wasn’t as smooth as with Wraithbone spray primer. You can see the Guilliman Flesh dried more uneven because of that. Sealing the surface with a coat of satin varnish might help to reduce this effect.
Fyresteel Throwing Axe (Double) – because of course they all have spare axes to throw at their enemies! Vallejo Desert Tan is interesting because I thought it would darken the Contrast colors more, but it actually didn't. Same goes for another Vallejo primer I didn't mention, Skeleton Bone.
I put down a solid basecoat of the color I want the shadows to be. On anything bigger than a face, you will definitely need two thin coats. On a face you may be able to get away with one, but probably not. This shadow color doesn’t need to be either one of your paint colors. For a darker caucasian color, I might go with a basecoat of pure Khardic Flesh. For a lighter color, the base coat might have a pretty significant portion of Sand in it. The same two paints can do a variety of shades. Since the Contrasts are all for intents and purposes glorified inks, and they work by staining on the high areas and gathering in the low areas, the color of primer underneath is just there to facilitate that. As long as the primer is light enough, the Contrasts at least in my opinion tend to "overcome" most of the differences between like a light gray primer vs. a light tan primer or white primer. With something like zombies, you can push the envelope very far. You can use pretty much any color. Green, Purple, Blue. Any color mixed with flesh tone, and then highlighting up with increasing quantities of a light flesh tone added will look great on a zombie. Just don’t push them too far or they will just read as whatever color you tinted with instead of as oddly colored flesh. so the short answer to all of the Zenithal stuff is that you would probably have to heavily dilute the Contrasts to make them really work over Zenithal. You can do that of course, but at that point you're really just using the Contrasts as ordinary washes or inks. I would personally just get like Army Painter washes and inks instead.Finally, came the beards and hair. This is the stand-out element of the Fyreslayers and I wanted to spend a bit more time on getting this right. I used almost all of my orange, yellow, and red paints in a combination of dry-brushing, contrast, and highlighting techniques, and was pleased with the finished look. But rather than go into any rambling about different results with different colors, here's a list of the primers I've used quite successfully with all the Contrasts:
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