Makita 7104L/2 240V Chain Mortiser

Product Information

I have never used a Mafell, and could have gone with one but I had read that the SP had a couple of small advantages over the Mafell. The 7104L/2 is equipped with a front cover to enclose the cutter chain, pivoting chain bar to enable the user to make 130mm long recangular holes in three cutting processes without having to re-clamp the work piece and single plunge operation. The team had some parts kicking around so they made a fixture to hold the chainsaw as it is plunged into the 4×4’s. Used for thousands of years by woodworkers around the world, the mortise and tenon joint is both simple and strong, and a critical link in building a timber frame. You can firmly attach onto timbers between 3-1/8” to 12-1/8” thickness with its large adjustable vise.

The machine is carried on a large substantial base, on which a compact frame is supported, which carries the necessary band wheels and feed mechanism. The folks over at [WayOutWest] were building a fence and needed a way to cut a bunch of mortises in 4×4 inch posts to accept 2×6 inch rails. The soul cf t h e machine is in its chain, which, with its sprocket and feeder bar, we i 1l u strate in one of our cuts. One can make through mortises on large timbers by laying out and cutting from both sides of the timber. Based on the current model 7104L, its specifications have been upgraded to meet the European standards.I have been looking onBay and gumtree for weeks and seen nothing useful, then two come along at once. A clear template and instructions are provided for easy fitting to your bar - just 2 holes drilled using a small drill press and 2 bolts. Some electrical parts have been changed to comply with the electromagnetic compatibility-requirement.

For depth, you can plunge up to 6-1/8” and you can use the depth gauge to set the depth or your mortise. It being green oak I don't need to be incredibly accurate, but I am doing this on my own and I do need to get the frame built without too much messing about! Can anyone tell me if they have purchased one of the used models from Japan and if they had any issues with voltage (Japan is 100v while USA is 110-120v)?I mean say you have one at the top of your post and one half way down in another position is there an easy way to mark this out so it lines up perfect. I am making a couple of timber frames shortly, and have about 120 mortises to cut in green oak beams of either 175 x 175 or 150 x 150 cross section. Scientific American maintains a strict policy of editorial independence in reporting developments in science to our readers. These two books are the perfect starting place to help you get to grips with one of the most vitally important aspects of our society - our homes and living environment. Get a Makita chain morticer and sell on when you're done - you'll struggle to find a pillar drill and morticing bit that'd make a typical mortice for an oak frame - (say 40 wide, 150 long and 100 deep in a 200 x 200 beam or post!

I have used them all, the Mafell, Protocol and Swiss Tool mortiser are incredible tools that greatly speed things up for the professional. with two outside teeth and a clearance space bet ween, others with two intermediate spaces with clearance spaces outside and between, others with a single central tooth. It requires way to much force to be applied to the small locking lever to hold when applying the locking lever. I wouldn't hire mine out, I'm afraid to say - it's too critical to my trade to feel comfortable with that.Our machinery range includes, lathes, bandsaws, table saws, spindle moulders, planers and thicknessers and pillar drills as well as dust extractors, welders and water pumps. Soon after i t s introduction t he a pp arently weak band sa w was developed so as to cut the hard -est w ood of any thickness with accuracy, economy and convenience undreamt of.

I have sharpened plenty of chainsaw chains and handsaws and such but never before a mortiser chain so please educate me!The biggest downside is that you are limited by the depth of the mortises, they are not UL listed (the last time I checked) and the upfront cost. By t he action of the mach i ne the face of the work is brought up against the chain so as to effect the mortising. If the dude needs an efficient way to make mortises, he could be better served doing it the old fashioned way, and unless they’re completely enamored with their new jig – they may just conclude that it wasn’t worth the effort in the end.