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Walking the Nile

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Thick tropical rainforest emerged out of the mist and in the distance can be seen the huge volcanoes that dominate and line the horizon, that forms the frontier with the Congo. Making the excuse that we had ‘military’ equipment they chose to confiscate yet more of our kit and disappeared back into the safety of the trees as quickly as they had appeared. The damp, humid, energy sapping conditions which Levison has become so familiar with since the start of the journey have now altered to being even hotter yet much drier as he enters the desert wastelands of Sudan. I hear that two United States helicopters hoping to evacuate civilians had been badly shot up with four soldiers being wounded, one seriously, two Indian peacekeepers had been killed and over 60 innocent civilians massacred. Although I was feeling very frustrated and angered by the enforced extra distance, this was tempered by the emotion of sheer joy when I discovered the blissful opportunity to soak my feet and sip a cold beer.

It became quickly apparent that all the motorised vehicles driving along the road were all heading south into the city and similarly the few pedestrians we also encountered that lined either side the highway were all walking towards us. No amount of logical explanation would calm down his tirade of ranting so we packed our bags and beat a hasty retreat from the village.

Furthermore I was heading into a war zone and I didn’t want to take responsibility for his safety, especially since he’s got a wife and two small children to consider. Saddened, shocked and angered by such carnage, our lowered morale was reflected by several miles of stony silence. To make matters worse the Sudd must be achieved before the heavy seasonal rains fall in May, so time is running out and any further delay could seriously jeopardise the whole course of the expedition.

So for the next few weeks into the middle of January I shall be finally alone apart from my constant companion Boston, my Ugandan interpreter, ex-Congolese rebel, local guide and general all round ‘Mr Fixer’. It is common to see grassland burnt for cattle grazing; nearly 85 percent of Ugandans live in rural areas and derive their livelihood from agriculture. kilometres in length burrows its way beneath the dam through which the river will be channelled next year.Levison said: “I was overwhelmed by the large number of people who turned up simply to shake our hands. Yes, we certainly worry but he is leading the lifestyle he wishes to follow and in that we have always supported him.

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